Thursday, 24 January 2013

Anise - muslin the first

I'm working on my Anise jacket. It was supposed to come after I finish my Cambie, but I just couldn't help myself. I've been watching The Couture Dress and The Bombshell Dress courses on Craftsy and reading the Anise Companion guide from Colette, and since I bought all the supplies that I need for the jacket at the end of last year, before I knew what had happened, I was sitting there with the pieces cut out in muslin in front of me!

I've been taking my time with it, though. I want to make sure that I get a good fit. I love the fabric that I bought - a beautiful grey Lisa Ho wool from the Fabric Store - and the buttons that I got are divine. They are vintage and glossy coppery colour, with some lace-like detailing on the side, in a mint green that perfectly matches the lining. I'm a little worried they might be a little too small, proportionately, though, as they are only about 5/8 of an inch instead of the 1 inch asked for. The lining is something I'm thinking about too, as it's polyester and the more time that I spend on this project the more that I think I should invest in something nicer as a lining fabric. It seems a shame to end up with something that I'm not thrilled about...but it matches the buttons so perfectly! I will keep an eye out and hopefully I can find something the same colour in a natural fabric.

This doesn't really capture the mintiness of the lining - it's a far prettier colour in real life but does not play well in photos.
Aren't those buttons beautiful?

I've been diligently following the instructions from The Couture dress so far and marked all my stitching lines on the pattern pieces and cut widely around the pattern on the muslin. I then transferred all the markings (including stitching lines) onto the muslin and thread traced them all. It's definitely helped in putting together the muslin! I've also been better-than-normal at unpicking the areas that I'm not happy with and fixing them. It's meant that I have a much better idea of how something will look on me than I would normally.

All in all, I'm pretty happy with the fit of this - apart from two obvious changes. For this first muslin I made a straight size 4. I definitely need an FBA adjustment, as it is feeling quite tight around the bust and I'd like more room there. My full bust size matches the size 4 measurements, so I'm not sure why it feels so tight.

The other change I'm going to make is to do a sway back adjustment. There is some pooling of fabric at the back and I think that will get rid of it.

I'm so keen to get started on the jacket proper, though. I have sleeve caps, shoulder pads, silk thread and beeswax ready to go! I also decided that instead of interfacing the collar, I'm going to do some pad stitching instead - I'm really excited to try this technique! And my first bound buttonholes! and my first welt pockets! I can't wait to get stuck into all this stuff. SO exciting!

The more I learn about sewing the more I love nerding out about it. If only my skill levels matched my excitement levels!! ;)

I was working on this all day on Saturday at the social sewing. I've done the FBA and swayback and am in the process of marking my new pieces and making up a new muslin. I've been busy the last few days, but hopefully I'll be able to finish muslin v2.0 this weekend!

I also have big plans for my dress to wear to Melanie's Sewcie Tea! I'm finally brave enough to cut into the beautiful fabric that The Chef brought back from the UK and have a pretty stunning pattern ready to go for that too!

Now if only I had the time and space to do more sewing!


  1. Ohhh I'm sew looking forward to seeing what you make to the tea party, I have no clue, I think I'll be as big as a house by then, I'm not sure what I could make.
    The jacket muslin looked good after you made the change. I look forward to seeing the real thing soon. X

    1. Thanks! I'm pretty excited about the high tea... Hope I can finish the dress I have planned by then! It might be more ambitious than I can cope with! I have the fabric, but the plan is to gather the other supplies on the 9th! Can't wait!

  2. Those buttons ARE divine. My skill levels certainly didn't match my excitement levels when I first started out... but they're slowly catching up! I still wear the first jacket I made, too (a Lady Grey coat). Learning about tailoring is soooo addictive :)
    I hear you on the time and space issue... if only!
    Can't wait to see what you sew up for April 7th :)

    1. Thanks! I can see improvement in my stuff, so at least I know I'm getting better, that's the main thing... and the better I get the more I enjoy it. I'm very excited about trying so many new techniques too. Oh! and I have your silk basting thread. I found it on the floor last social sewing day. I'll bring it for you next time I see you.

  3. Oh What lovely buttons! Have you seen gerties post on deconstructing a modern jacket compared to a 40's one? Super nerdy AND interesting

    1. Yes! I loved that post! so cool. I really love nerding out about all the tailoring details. I can see that this obsession is only going to get worse as I find out more, too!